2:15 Shuttle

These past few days I’ve been camped at a hotel just outside the village of Camogli, which is situated on the Liguria coast some 25 km south east of Genoa, Italy.  The actual hotel is high up on a hilltop overlooking the ocean so with spectacular views of the sea and mountains it’s hard to contemplate leaving…

Looking towards Genoa at Sunset from the Hotel
- the Liguria Coast is a very special place indeed!

However, I wanted to tell you about one of my adventure this week.   As usual the sun was shining high in an unbelievably blue sky – “azure” as the locals would say.   I had decided to hike to Portofino via the small and remote village of San Fruttuosco, which is only accessible either by foot or boat.   The hike to Portofino is about 10 km through the Parc di Portofino.  Interestingly the Italian government realized that both the land and sea in this area is a natural wonder to Italy and decided to create both a national and marine park.   You can see why as its absolutely gorgeous!

Parc de Portofino trail - looks easy!

Definitely feeling up to the challenge given that I’d hiked the Kokoda Track in Papua New Guinea last year and reckoning I could now pretty much tackle any type of local hike I set off with high hopes of an easy stroll in the park.  

Prior to leaving the hotel I had stopped into the front desk that doubles as the Concierge; I tried to explain to the somewhat bewildered front desk clerk that I was planning on hiking to Portofino and wanted to know how I could get back to the hotel.

Clearly my Italian is not primo, or his English equally up to the challenge, that being said he endeavoured to explain that the best way back was to catch a boat from Portofino that would stop at San Fruttuoso, where I would change boats and then take one to Camogli from whence there I could catch the shuttle back to the hotel.  

Which shuttle would I like to book for this afternoon back from Camogli he asked smiling?

I then asked him how often the boats left from Portofino to San Fruttuoso and Camogli…every hour he said confidently.   Looking at my watch I calculated that it would take me a couple of hours to hike to Portofino – it said 3.5 hours on the guide (however given that I was an experienced hiker) I thought it would only take me a couple of hours, then a look around in Portofino, possibly lunch… “Put me on the 2:15 pm shuttle back from Camogli” I told him self-assuredly.

Smartly I ensured that I had water and snacks for my hike, but instead of hiking boots (which I decided to leave home at the last minute to save on space with my carry on) I decided to wear my sandals…(mistake number one).  I reasoned that if the porters in PNG can hike across the Kokoda track in thongs (flip-flops to you in North America) then surely I could handle this little jaunt in my sandals…  How hard can it be I think naively?

Walking through wild and ancient olive groves

The Parc entrance was at the top of the hotel car park and so with high hopes for easy walk and some magnificent views, I set off at 9:38 am.  The path leading out of the hotel was well laid stonework and very flat, but after the first turn the path turned into a dusty and narrow pathway…well it is a national park after all I thought to myself.   Fortunately the path was well signed and so not easy to get lost, thank goodness because it became decidedly steeper – both up and down and actually quite reminiscent of my Papuan adventure.  

Hhhmmm these sandals were probably not a good idea I said out loud (first sign of madness) after about an hour and still not at San Fruttuoso…where the hell is this place anyway?   Sure enough through the trees from my high cliff vantage point I spot what looked like a church down in a little cove.   Slowly winding my way down this steep grade through wild olive groves to the village…hardly a village as it consisted of half a dozen stone houses an ancient abbey, bell tower and restaurant.   Such a remote but beautiful little place I think to myself and so after a few quick photos decide I better get a wriggle on if I’m going to make the 2:15 shuttle.

Now that I’ve come down into San Fruttuoso I have to get myself back up and over to Portofino, and thank goodness rather than having to scale that enormous mountain, I can follow the path around the ocean and over the headland…now for the easy part I think to myself…just a little stroll to Portofino and everything will be back on track.

San Fruttuoso can only be reached either on
on foot or by boat but is such an enchanting little village!

As I continue my ever increasing hike up the headland, the sweat is dripping off me and my camera is at the risk of being drowned so clipping it to my back pack I trudge on – man it must be 35C I think to myself…

I run into a couple of other hikers coming the other way and what strikes me is that they are clearly experienced as they all have walking poles, oh and the proper footwear…

The views of Portofino are magnificent as I round the track and spot it far off in the distance.  It takes me just over 3:15 min to make it to Portofino, and now completely drenched in sweat, I look as though I’ve been swimming rather than hiking.  After a bit of an explore I look at my watch and calculate that I probably don’t have a lot of time to spare before the next boat leaves for Camogli so I quickly seek out the Tourist Office to get directions or the very least a ticket.

I asked the bewildered agent when the next boat to San Fruttuoso and Camogli leaves – she stares at me and says…”no boats today – perhaps tomorrow”.   “You could walk - its only three and half hours to Camogli if you don’t visit San Fruttuoso” she says smiling.

At this point I think she realized the look on my face as one of utter dejection…then she said that perhaps I could catch the bus to San Margherita Liguria and then the train to Camogli, but I would have to hurry as the next bus was going to leave in three minutes from the end of the road…   She quickly showed me where the bus would drop me off and where the train station was (10 min walk from the main piazza in San Margherita) on a tourist map which she now gives me and bundles me out the door pointing to where the bus will be in mere moments.

Destination - Portofino

No time to wait, I sprinted up the road to find a long line of people waiting and if I wasn’t completely drenched before I was positively dripping now as I stood in line for the bus under the continuingly unremitting sun. 

Sure enough the bus is absolutely packed and I’m stuck at the back standing in a pool of my own sweat surrounded by, for the most part rather unhappy tourists as they eye me with horror.  The bus swings wildly around each corner on the exceedingly narrow coast road I’m often pushed into those around me…feeling acutely embarrassed and apologizing (“mi scuze”) like there is no tomorrow we eventually arrive in San Margherita. 

At the second stop in San Margherita the bus starts to empty, so thinking that this must be the main stop I also jump off only to realize as the bus pulls off in a cloud of blue diesel fumes that I am about a kilometer from the main piazza…crap! (Mistake number two)

After an additional 10-minute walk I find the signs to the train station – buying a ticket and getting a confirmation that the next regional train via Camogli leaves in 15 minutes I allow myself a deep breath.  

Looking at my watch, surprisingly I can still make the 2:15 pm shuttle.

I observe a number of express trains fly through the station at high speed and even a couple of regional trains heading in the other direction (La Spezia) on the other platform, they are all meticulously on time.   I think to myself how Trenitalia have really got their act together and run a tight ship.  Nice!

My train is due any moment, but there is an announcement to say my train will be delayed 15 minutes, which is in both Italian and English.   Okay still good!   With 5 minutes till my train is scheduled to arrive another train slowly chugs into the station and stops in front of me.   Almost all of the people around me get onto the train; this must be it I think to myself as I board (Mistake number three).   In the hub-hub of boarding there is another announcement but I can’t hear given all the noise around me, so I ask another passenger if this train stops in Camogli…they have no English and have a slightly confused look as I ask again – “Camogli?”

The jerks forward…this must be it I think to myself, there can’t be too many options although I must admit a shadow of doubt begins to sneak into my psyche as the train builds up speed and heads into the first tunnel.

At the second tunnel it seems to be traveling at least 100 km per hour, and given my understanding of the local geography Camogli is just on the other side of this tunnel…

Not exactly my first choice of final
destination for the quick trip back...

“Noooooo” I think to myself as the train barrels through Camogli and I sit somewhat dejected for the next 20 minutes as the train travels all the way to Genoa without another stop.   So now I’m 30 km from where I need to be.   Seems like the harder I push the further I am from my goal…hhhmmm seems like a life lesson to me!

Eventually detraining at the Genoa Brignole station I now procure another ticket back to Camogli and wait patiently for the next regional train that eventually arrives on time (without any delays) and to the right platform. 

What a day I think to myself – such an unexpected adventure!   I could be mad, upset or dejected, but instead I choose to smile and think how fortunate I am to have had such an amazing day in such a beautiful part of the world.  This is what traveling is all about, dealing with the unexpected, both good and bad…enjoying myself along the way and now getting to you tell the tale.

p.s.   Yes I missed the 2:15 pm shuttle….no surprise there!   The 20-euro taxi ride back up the mountain to my hotel was worth every last centime.  :-)